The camera is in a fog, what should I do? How to shoot a foggy landscape? What to do to avoid a blurry photo

Photographing in fog, fog itself, or even mist can be very tricky. It often happens that after a photo shoot, when looking at the finished results on a large monitor screen, the photographer understands that the atmosphere did not reciprocate, and the photographs turned out blurry and flat. Let's look at some methods that will help you get decent quality in such unique shooting conditions as fog.

Daniel Řeřicha

Fog usually forms when there is high humidity and a sharp cooling of the air, which often occurs in spring and autumn, just after sunset. This fog can remain until the morning, until the sun warms the ground and air. There is a good chance that you will find fog somewhere near the water in the lowlands. The surface of the water is usually slightly warmer than the surrounding air, which contributes to the formation of fog. We are talking about photography in the fog, but we also mean such a photographic concept as haze.

Photographing in fog is different from shooting in clear weather. The surrounding reality, architecture, trees and even people are poorly visible, do not have clear contours and often the image lacks contrast and color saturation. And this is exactly what needs to be used in this beautiful weather “special effect”.

Prasit Chansareekorn

In essence, fog can be compared to a large light-diffusing softbox that spreads light over a large surface.

The compositional component in fog is usually dimly lit, which requires longer exposure times. In addition, fog makes the air more reflective, and will undoubtedly mislead any camera's built-in light meter, which will consider the exposure in this light to be less than necessary. Just like photographing snow, photography in fog requires positive exposure compensation.

In exchange for all these potential disadvantages, fog can be a powerful and useful tool for emphasizing depth, lighting, and shape of objects. Photographs in fog can become mysterious and dreamlike, which undoubtedly makes them so popular among award nominees in various photo competitions. Knowing how to use these unique properties of fog photography, you can easily create images that...

...perfectly emphasize depth

The further the object is from the camera in foggy weather, the worse it is visible, and the contrast is lost and sometimes quite sharply. This is both good and bad at the same time. Blurring in the haze of the background adds volume to the entire image due to the fact that the details of the image are less visible and a light and aerial perspective appears. But this also makes it difficult to photograph background objects. With each subsequent meter, saturation, contrast and sharpness may drop, not always in the range desired by the photographer.

While there are no hard and fast rules for photography in fog, it is often helpful to include a subject in your composition that is close enough to the lens to be clearly defined. This placement adds some tonal variety and creates a corresponding perception of the part of the photo that will appear lighter due to the haze.

...reflect light perfectly

Drops of water that saturate the air in the fog make the light diffuse. This softens it greatly and causes the light streaks from a concentrated or directional light source to appear. A classic example would be a photo in a forest in the early morning light, when the photo is taken in the direction of that light beam.

Sometimes you just need to move the camera to make these “sheaves of sun” disappear, so be careful.

Techniques like these are too good to pass up.

The light rays will be drawn best if you are close enough to the light source. This position ensures that in diffused light, a clear beam of sunlight will stand out against the general background.

On the other hand, if the fog is very dense or the light source is very concentrated, then the rays of light will still be clearly visible, regardless of what angle the photographer is shooting from.

... effectively emphasizes shapes and silhouettes

Fog can highlight the shape of objects because it will reduce the texture and contrast of the object. Often the silhouette may not even be completely drawn.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the relative position of objects in the composition, otherwise the outline of one object or borders may intersect with another object and create indistinct chaos in the photograph.

Take photos from the side

You've probably encountered photographers complaining about the difficulty of shooting inside a forest. This difficulty is expressed in the fact that it is difficult to “simplely state the fact of the presence of trees,” you need to try to photograph directly outside the location area. Get out of the forest, cross its borders, watch the trees from the side. Fog or haze can work well for this shooting technique.

At a distance, the fog appears as nothing more than a low layer of white clouds, but contributes to the harmonious transmission of light perspective.

Synchronize your photo shoot with changes in nature

Remember that fog and haze are constantly changing their position. They can look like an even distribution of a light tone over the entire surface that the eyes can cover, or they can hang as white, slightly transparent shreds. Depending on the type, fog can move faster or slower, sometimes not even noticeable to the eye, because human eyes can adapt to different types of lighting.

Note the fact that the fog will not be able to hold the texture of the surrounding space if time exposition not short enough. With a long shutter speed, you will get smoothness in your photographs and a smooth flow of white light of different concentrations from one point in the picture to another. However, long shutter speeds are useful when the fog moves slowly and smoothly, almost imperceptibly to the eye.

While a short exposure will generally do a much better job of freezing the movement of fog, it will also have a significant impact on the amount of noise in the image when viewed at 100%. This problem is common and typical. Therefore, “freezing the fog” is not an option if the photographer wants to avoid noise.

Condensation. Protection of photographic equipment

The main problem for photographic equipment is condensation of water droplets from the air. Rest assured - the same drops that “hang” in the air can also condense on the surface of the lens or inside the camera. If the camera was located at an appropriate ambient temperature, and the fog was not too dense, then you may not notice condensation at all. And condensation will certainly appear if the camera was at a temperature significantly higher than the one in which you are filming the haze.

Luckily for photographers and their camera equipment, there is an easy way to minimize the condensation caused by going indoors to outdoors.

Before leaving the house, pack the entire camera in a sealed plastic bag and do not open it outdoors until the bag is the same temperature as the surrounding area.

Unfortunately, sometimes a little condensation is inevitable. Just remember to wipe the lens and camera with a dry cloth.

I conceived this article a long time ago, more than a year ago. I finally decided to publish some thoughts.

What are your first impressions of the fog? Muddy and slushy? Maybe. Damp and chilly? Exactly. But all this is true only when we are talking about the physical perception of fog as an atmospheric phenomenon, its sensation and consequences of influence - moisture, dampness, poor visibility, etc.

But you and I are not limited to a dry and pragmatic assessment of fogs at the level of weather forecasters. And let’s not complain about the cold and dampness, like the old women at the entrance on a chilly autumn morning. You and I know what a magnificent sight this fog is.

Or does anyone still have doubts? In this case, there is only one thing left to do: pick up a camera and get out into nature as soon as possible.

“There, behind the fogs, the eternal drunks...”

“Oh, roads, dust and fog, cold, anxiety, and steppe weeds...”

These lines of the famous Russian poet Lev Oshanin immediately come to mind when you look at the road, like a snake disappearing into the foggy haze of the distance. A lone horse grazes by the road. It would seem - a classic of the genre, a plot worthy of the pen of Tyutchev or Yesenin, the brush of the French painter Claude Monet or the Russian artist Isaac Ilyich Levitan.

This can only be found in Russia! Stop! But this is already slander and slander. The fog knows no boundaries. He doesn't care about your political views and beliefs. He is, was and will always be. And you can enjoy its beauty and mystery almost everywhere. And, to be honest, the fog doesn’t care whether you enjoy its beauty, curse the dampness it causes, or are indifferent to it. He simply IS. And personally, he always gives me an irresistible desire to capture at least a fraction of his beauty, conveying it in the frame.

How and with what to remove fog?

There is no need to think too hard when looking for places to take photographs. It is not necessary to buy a ticket and fly to the eastern shores of North America, to Newfoundland, where, as you know, the most foggy (literally!) corner of our planet is located. Don't wait until fall to practice fog photography. No, undoubtedly, fog most often forms in the fall, when there is more moisture in the air and temperature changes are greater than, for example, in summer. However, light summer fog - be it on a river, lake, or in the city - is a phenomenon more than worthy of your attention

Therefore, the only advice I can give to “fog hunters” is to get up early, don’t be lazy. Wherever you live. And you will be rewarded!

Personally, I shoot digital. The first camera I purchased and used to shoot at the very beginning was a Canon Eos 350D. Only after a few years of practice I decided to purchase a more advanced Canon Eos 40D. Now I shoot on a Canon Eos 7D.

I’ll reveal just a couple of tricks that will help you capture the beauty of fogs while avoiding common mistakes.

Firstly, as a recommendation, use short-focus lenses when shooting in fog - the result is more predictable, the pictures look more voluminous and not as faded as if you shoot with long-focus lenses, which are characterized by a good depth of field, more suitable for portrait photography. But I still prefer to shoot with my favorite 70-200 because at a short focus, especially if the panorama is large, everything looks quite small. And in thick fog there is not always a need for a wide angle

Secondly, be careful when choosing the point from which you will shoot. It depends on whether you want the rays of dawn to be visible in the fog, or, on the contrary, you want to highlight the depth of the fog.

The choice of shooting point in the fog plays a decisive role, because the shooting parameters can be adjusted along the way, but if the angle is not right or the place is not right, nothing can be corrected. I often had to run from one place to another, with a clear understanding that another 2-3 minutes and the moment would be lost, the sun would rise higher, a person would leave or appear in the frame, etc.

Third, beware of condensation - you should take care of your camera by preparing it for shooting in the early morning hours, after taking it outside, for example, in a sealed plastic bag. This advice will probably be more relevant if you find yourself in December or January fog, when the temperature outside is sub-zero, or if you are high in the mountains, or when the fog is so thick and dense that it simply settles in the form of drops. It doesn’t happen once in a while; I always have a package with me as insurance.

Fourth, never forget to take a tripod with you. To be honest, I’m not a big fan of shooting with a tripod, especially when I have to constantly move from point to point, but the role of a tripod cannot be underestimated. Especially when there is a significant lack of light, and there is a need for depth of field.

There are countless pieces of advice that can be given. I am sure, in addition to general, well-known observations, each photographer has his own tricks, secrets, troubles... But, as the classic said, “And experience is the son of difficult mistakes, and genius is the friend of paradoxes.”

To you, curious ones!

By the way, an interesting fact - did you know that on Titan, a satellite of Saturn, scientists suggest a weather cycle similar to that on Earth? And somewhere, somewhere, everything is in order with fogs - they cover the entire southern pole of the celestial body! True, according to scientists, this fog is the result of the evaporation of methane, and not water, as on Earth. I wonder what you should use to photograph there? Maybe someone can tell me?

Yes, and one more thing - if you are not used to getting up with the first rays of the sun and are not ready to wait for trips to Titan to become commonplace - just point your camera lens at... the clouds! After all, this is, in fact, the same fog! Or, rather, on the contrary: fog is the same cloud. Descended to earth to rest a little...

Summer is already beginning to prepare us for the coolness of autumn, and therefore it is worth remembering how to photograph a weather phenomenon typical of autumn.

A mysterious fog that gives any photograph a mystical and sometimes magical mood. Reduced visibility, muted sounds, the very atmosphere of coolness and silence are priceless when they can be seen live or even captured in a photo. Of course, the fog will allow you to take more joyful pictures, for example, with the rays of the sun. Let's talk today about what you need to capture the fog =).

Photographing natural phenomena is very exciting and can be difficult, since they are ephemeral and constantly change, or even disappear altogether. And fog is no exception.

How does it arise? In order for it to be clearly visible, it will require high humidity and low temperature. It usually occurs after sunset and can last until the morning, until the sun begins to warm the earth. You can see fog more often in lowlands and near water.

You know for sure that objects are hard to see in fog and contrast is lost. But it is precisely these seemingly disadvantages that can allow you to take photographs of amazing beauty and unusualness. Fog is often compared to a huge, light-diffusing softbox. This gives us amazing opportunities to convey depth, lighting effects and play with the shapes of objects.

How to show depth?

If the object we are photographing is far from us, then it may be difficult to see and the contrast may be lost. But we can get volume and depth by blurring the background: light and aerial perspectives will look magical.

How to play with light?

Since fog is made up of myriads of tiny drops of water, when light hits them, you can get amazingly beautiful shots. Remember how interesting the sun's rays look when they shine from the haze: their lines are visible very clearly and clearly. If you use artificial light sources, the rays will be clearer as you get closer to the light source.

Silhouettes

As details and textures are lost and blurred in the fog, silhouettes come to the fore. The haze emphasizes them, while softly enveloping them. Be careful with the composition - if there are several subjects and they are located too close, the boundaries may coincide and you will get an indistinct photo.

What exposure should I shoot with?

Remember that fog, like any other natural phenomenon, is not constant, but changes over time. To capture it as clearly as possible, you can take a photo with a short exposure, but then the noise in the photo will increase. More often, a long shutter speed is used for fog, then it will be possible to capture a smooth and slow flow.
Take care of yourself and your camera!

As we've said several times, visibility can be significantly reduced in fog, so be careful when in unfamiliar areas. You can never predict in advance where you might stumble or stumble. And sudden ravines are also not a very pleasant thing. So, even when immersed in the shooting process, do not forget to look at your feet =).

It is important to take care of your photographic equipment. It will be cool and humid in the fog, and if you take out a relatively warm camera right away, condensation may appear on it both on the surface and even inside. The surface can be wiped with a soft cloth.

Helpful advice for those who want to avoid condensation: at home, pack the camera in a bag and do not take it out at the shooting location until it “cools down” and becomes cold. Then condensation will not appear.

Now you know some of the secrets of how to take photographs of an amazing natural phenomenon that always makes a strong impression both in person and in photos. You can shoot nature, people, buildings during fog, which will be mysteriously lost in the distance.

If you want to learn more about capturing ephemeral weather events, sign up for our course.

Photographers, do you have any photos of the fog? Attach it in the comments =).

A good place to start is to figure out exactly how fog affects photography. The first obvious thing is that it limits visibility. I’m sure there’s no need to explain what to do with this.

The fog scatters the light. Actually, we humans are not able to see any other light other than reflected or directed directly into our eyes. In clear weather and clean air, we do not see light. But if there is something in the air to reflect light from, we will see beautiful volumetric light flows.

How fog affects photos

Light scattering has several other effects.

Fog reduces image contrast. You can make exposure correction in “+” or take photographs with exposure bracketing to make your life easier when further editing foggy photos. It's almost certain that your camera's light meter will be wrong when you're shooting in fog, don't trust the light meter.

Fog mutes colors, but not equally. Since the wavelength of each color is different, the part of the spectrum with a short wavelength (blue and cyan) is scattered more than, say, yellow or orange. But the degree of dispersion depends on the size of the fog particles, that is, it is not always the same. So when photographing in fog or haze, you can see a completely different set of colors than when photographing during the day or at night. Also, the fog can be colored by sources of artificial light, which can be very beautiful.

Fog provides an increase in depth to our “picture” (tonal perspective) and changes the entire mood of the photo. Lanterns in the fog become like magical giant fireflies, unnecessary details are hidden, and the composition ceases to forgive mistakes.

How to catch the fog

As usual, this is the time and place. Time is autumn and spring to a greater extent than winter and summer. Fog needs contrasting temperatures.

In some places there are no problems with fog at all. Typically, fog forms where there is a temperature difference that allows water to condense. These are the coasts of seas and oceans, and smaller bodies of water, mountains. If it happens in nature, let’s say you went hiking in the mountains, all you have to do is get up before dawn and the fog will create volume and depth. Mountains are generally an excellent place for fog, as is the forest, however. It is also obvious that fog accumulates in low areas.

But in the city (we are not talking about London, although fogs are not so frequent there) fogs are less common, but they still happen. In the city, it is better to look for fog near the rivers, and a good friend of the townspeople - smog - can be a substitute for fog.

Typically, the best time for fog is early in the morning. You should eat less in the fog in the evening. So the “larks” from photography still benefit.

1. Take a tripod. Still, fog seriously reduces illumination, and if you increase the ISO number, you will get a rather noisy image;
2. Condensation can be dangerous. Do not expose the camera to sudden temperature changes, otherwise fog may form in the lens...
3. Use a histogram. This really helps to understand what the image will be like in the end. It may look different on your small screen and on a large monitor, not to mention printed;
4. Use backlight. In the case of lanterns and spotlights, the fog will absorb most of the radiation and produce a soft, enveloping light. Well, in the case of morning sunlight, the fog will make it visible;
5. Think about composition. In the fog that hides the background, all the flaws in the composition will be more noticeable. Only silhouettes that will need to be lined up in a neat “pattern” may remain in the photo;
6. Fellow photographers, shoot in , if you have one, of course;
7. The fog doesn't last long, so be prepared in advance. In addition, as the sun appears, the color of the fog itself will also change;
8. Wake up early. This is generally universal advice for a photographer, especially if we are talking about natural landscapes; at noon there is nothing to catch at all. Moreover, you won’t catch the fog.

Shots with fog invariably attract the attention of viewers: they are mysterious, unusual, and atmospheric. How to take photos with fog? How can you catch this unusual natural phenomenon? In this article I will share my experience...

NIKON D810 SETTINGS: ISO 64, F13, 1/2 sec, 32.0 mm equiv.

For successful shooting, it is important to predict the appearance of fog in order to go to the location on time. Unfortunately, weather forecasters cannot always predict the appearance of fog, and I do not recommend relying on them. And few weather forecast services even say anything about fog.

It is better to rely on your own experience here. Fog, as a rule, is not a very frequent phenomenon and not very predictable. In different areas of our country it falls with different frequencies, and much depends on the specific area. Observe nature in your area. However, general recommendations for searching for fog can be given.

Most often you can catch him early in the morning: before sunrise and immediately after. This is due to the change in temperature: from a cold night to a warm morning. The greater the temperature difference between night and day, the more likely fog will appear. And if it rained last day, then the likelihood of fog greatly increases. Most often, fog can be found in lowlands, near ponds and swamps.

The photo presented in the article was taken on the swampy shore of the pond. It had rained the night before and the night temperature was quite low. Therefore, I decided to go to one of the pre-designated locations for filming. If you are going to shoot landscapes, be sure to make a list of beautiful places, shooting points, and go on photo reconnaissance. This will help you work faster and more productively during the shoot itself.

So, you came to the shooting location on a foggy morning. I hope you didn't forget your tripod? After all, the lighting in the morning is not so intense, and without a tripod you will have to shoot either at high ISO and get frames ruined by digital noise, or shoot handheld at too long shutter speeds and get frames ruined by “shake.”

Let's summarize. To take a high-quality photo, you must:

Mount the camera on a tripod.

Set minimum ISO. For most cameras, this is ISO100.

To ensure that the entire frame is sharp, you should shoot with an aperture closed to f/8. This way we will achieve greater depth of field. In addition, it is at f/8 that most lenses demonstrate maximum image quality.

Of course, all these manipulations can only be done in M ​​or A modes. I shoot landscapes only in M ​​mode so that the camera’s automation does not interfere with my creativity. If you don’t yet know how to shoot in manual modes, I advise you to learn how to do it as soon as possible. In the meantime, you can use the “landscape” scene program, which is found in all amateur cameras.

When photographing, I used a Nikon D810 camera with a Nikon AF-S 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5G ED Nikkor lens. For landscape photography, we recommend wide-angle lenses. Landscape painters use them most often. Among the interesting full-frame wide-angle lenses, besides the mentioned Nikkor 18-35, we can recommend the gorgeous Nikon AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED Nikkor, which has not only excellent sharpness, but also high aperture. Or Nikon AF-S 16-35mm f/4G ED VR Nikkor, which has image stabilization. For APS-C format cameras (Nikon D3200, Nikon D3300, Nikon D5300), there are lenses designed specifically for them that provide a wide viewing angle even taking into account the crop factor. Among such optics we can highlight the Nikon 12-24mm f/4G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor. Well, if you are going to shoot a landscape for the first time, then a kit lens with focal lengths of 18-55 mm will be sufficient.